There are many different kinds of surfers these days. Surfing is more popular now than it’s ever been, and lineups are getting a little clogged. Depending on where you live, you can pull up to a spot on the worst day ever and still have to battle a million other surfers for waves. Take Malibu. It’s a prime example of what happens when a spot truly blows up and everyone just sort of agrees that the only rule is no rules. Sure, that’s an extreme example, but it’s relevant. A friend once told me (after I’d been burned on every wave I paddled into at First Point) that “if you’re not in front of someone, you’re behind them.” Unless you’re someone like Allen Sarlo, that’s basically true for the average surfer at Malibu. With big crowds, there are always a few people who exhibit the same traits. So here, I’ve categorized them very broadly. Too broadly, but hey, people contain multitudes and if one thing in this life is true, it’s that everything is black and white and nuance is not a real thing. READ MORE FROM THE INERTIA
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