...All in all, surfing is in many ways a romantic activity, and positioning one’s life around it is too. The origins of this romanticization stretch back as far as surfing itself, to the ancient Polynesians and Peruvians, and there is no blame to be appointed. Neither the surf or general media are creating an image that does not exist in reality. Though there may be some stretching of details and artistic freedom in the ways surfing is presented, spending one’s time in the ocean, harnessing the earth’s natural energy, and waking up every morning just to do it all again is a wonderful lifestyle. Who wouldn’t want to express that? FULL STORY from The Inertia
I condemn hypocrisy in all its forms
Sunday, July 09, 2023
Who’s behind the romanticization of the surfing life?
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