Why do so many surfers meet untimely deaths?

ChatGPT summary: The author discusses the higher occurrence of untimely deaths among surfers and explores potential connections between risky behaviors, adrenaline-seeking tendencies, and psychological makeup. While surfers are known for engaging in dangerous activities, some deaths occur outside of surfing itself. The article suggests that the thrill-seeking nature of surfers, coupled with their willingness to take risks, may contribute to the higher rates of unnatural deaths. The desire for attention, adrenaline withdrawal symptoms, and the allure of the unknown are also discussed as factors that can lead surfers to engage in risky behavior. Surf culture's embracing of danger and the pursuit of passion at the expense of other priorities are additional elements explored. Ultimately, the article posits that the unique characteristics and inclinations of surfers may play a role in their attraction to danger and the unfortunate outcomes that sometimes result. FULL STORY from The Inertia